用护肤品时,「拍打」会促进吸收吗?

知乎用户,《美白化妆品科学与技术》作者,汀兰护肤实验室创始人/配方师
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首先,答题主问,使用护肤品时轻轻“拍打”,是可以促进护肤品吸收的。

这是有依据的,请耐心看到后面。但是这个需要一些前提,拍打的力度一定一定要适当,以不损伤皮肤为宜。

至于其他答主的意见,说不仅不能帮助吸收,反而加快护肤品的蒸发,有部分也是事实。护肤品的主要成分就是水分,涂抹在皮肤表面,不管拍不拍,都是会蒸发的

拍打确实会适当加快蒸发,但并不影响它促进护肤品吸收的事实。


这个题是需要很多前提的,因为不是所有的成分都会吸收到皮肤里,例如绝大部分的水分就是蒸发掉,滑溜溜 + 稠厚的高分子增稠剂、透明质酸、纤维素等,这些成分也不容易进入皮肤。

总体上亲水的成分不容易渗透,亲脂的成分容易进入皮肤。


药物外用制剂施于正常的皮肤表面后,吸收进入全身血液循环称作透皮吸收。

化妆品中的活性物的透皮吸收并不需要透过皮肤进去人体循环,这是与药物的主要区别。

活性物经皮肤渗透有三个途径:

① 附属途径:透过毛囊、皮脂腺和汗腺脉,脂溶性药物分子可通过毛囊壁的上皮细胞进入血管较丰富的真皮和皮下组织;

② 细胞内途径;

③ 细胞间隙途径。

活性物经皮吸收的的途径实际上取决于途径的表面积和长度,也取决于在每一个区域内活性物的扩散性和溶解度,这些途径不是相互排斥的。

使用护肤品时轻轻“拍打”,是可以促进护肤品吸收的

根据渗透压定律:

πV=nRT 或π=cRT,

也称为范特霍夫公式,也叫渗透压公式

式中π为稀溶液的渗透压,kPa;V 为溶液的体积,L;c 为溶液的浓度,mol/L;n 为溶质的物质的量,mol;R 为气体常数;T 为热力学温度,K。

常数 R 的数值与π和 V 的单位有关,当π的单位为 kPa,V 的单位为升(L)时,R 值为 8.31 kPa·L·K-1·mol-1。

假如把皮肤看作是一层半透膜,只容许某种混合物中的一些物质透过,而不容许另一些物质透过。增加活性物的浓度或温度时,都可使π值增大,促进活性成分的吸收。

当涂抹力度加大、涂抹时间加长时,也相当于施加了一个压力,使压力大于π值,增强活性物的透皮能力。因此可以解释使用护肤品时轻拍脸部或者按摩能更容易吸收。


因此,大体上的结论就是:使用护肤品时,轻轻“拍打”有助于吸收,但是力度要适当。

促进护肤品成分吸收的方法还有很多,在此不作展开讨论。

参考文献:

林婕,化妆品功效成分的透皮吸收机理。

部分图片来源于网络,涉及版权问题请私信。

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